Industry Spotlight: Local Sewing Expert Talks About the Art of Pattern Making

Rebecca Moore, instructor at International Academy of Design and Technology (IADT) Detroit and current pattern maker and production manager at Detroit Sewn™, started sewing at a very early age. In high school, she was introduced to pattern making by a tailor, and loved how math and a ruler could be the tools used to create a fairly simple garment. To some, pattern making can be an incredibly daunting task, but we had the chance to talk with Moore and delve into the art of pattern making. 

DGG: Tell us about pattern making. Why is it so important, and what are the three key things designers need to know when it comes to creating a pattern and working with a pattern maker?

Rebecca Moore: A pattern is the blueprint for your design. Pattern makers, or designers who are making patterns, need to know the measurements of the person for whom they are making the pattern, and the design elements needed for the design. Communication is key when working with a pattern maker. Designers need to have a sketch, or a clear idea of what the pattern needs to look like, including fabrics and notions, so the pattern maker knows how to draft the pattern to work with the fabric trims needed for the design.

DGG: What are the responsibilities of a pattern maker?

RM: The pattern maker will draft or drape the design, and he or she will also sew a sample with pattern to make sure all pieces fit together properly and lay correctly on the body. I think of pattern making as the engineering part of design; pattern makers need to have good mathematical skills, and a good eye to be able to project how the style, pattern and fabric will hang on the body before the garment is even sewn together.

DGG: Describe pattern making in 10 words or less. 

RM: Pattern making is the blueprint for your design.

DGG: What's the most rewarding thing about when creating a pattern for a client?

RM: Watching their face light up and say it is exactly what they envisioned.  

DGG: What three things do designers need to keep in mind when looking to hire a pattern maker?

RM: Have a clear idea of what you want in your pattern, have a sketch or a picture and be prepared for the expense. This is going to be a one-time expense, and it will be expensive. Pattern making is not just a paper pattern, it is a sample and a techpack. This includes a list of pattern pieces, instructions to sew the garment and a spec sheet (points of measure of your garment). If you plan on having it manufactured, you are required to have a tech pack to have it produced.

DGG: What advice do you have for industrial sewers who are looking to get into pattern making? RM: You need to know the body, math and textiles in order to be a good pattern maker.  

DGG: If you could work for any fashion house in the world as a designer or pattern maker, who would it be and why? 

RM: I would love to have my own fashion house someday, but in the mean time Balenciaga would be my second choice.

DGG: Describe your style.  

RM: Clean lines, comfortable and great fabric

DGG: How do you take your coffee? 

RM: Cream and sugar.

DGG: Do you prefer handmade patterns or digitized patterns? 

RM: Either.  I use all methods of pattern making, draping, digitized and drafting. It depends on the design of the garment for which method I prefer.

DGG: Do you prefer Dior or Chanel? 

RM: Dior is awesome, but my all time favorite is Madeline Vionnet.

A Letter from DGG’s President: What Will Detroit’s Garment District Really Be Like?

By Karen Buscemi

If you haven’t heard the news, DGG’s plan for a garment district is underway. With great partners including the city of Detroit, Detroit Economic Growth Corporation, Michigan Economic Development Corporation and the Governor’s Office, and roughly 30 companies to date that would like to reside there, there’s no way this project won’t succeed.

But you may be wondering, what will it really be like?

Here’s what we are planning:

• It will finally provide a space for our fashion community to reside so we can have power in numbers and be more easily recognizable on a national level.
• It will have levels of rent that will increase as your company grows – without pricing you out of the district – including shared space opportunities, so it’s affordable for all businesses.
• It will eventually have all the types of businesses you would find in New York’s Garment District, such as fabric and accessory stores, cut and sew manufacturers and pattern makers, but at an appropriate scale for our community.
• It will allow for convenient collaboration amongst our fashion community.
• It will be the location of DGG’s Fashion Incubator, which will also have an education room that will be open to the public to learn the business of fashion. We will also have a program in place that will allow fashion designers to come in and utilize our industrial sewing machines and high-end pattern-making/grading/design software.
• It will be marketed as a tourist destination, so people outside the state will have an opportunity to shop our local designers and retailers.
• It will host regular sample sales to bring metro Detroiters into the district for shopping and familiarizing themselves with our local designers.
• It will include outreach to editors of national publications, bloggers and buyers.

If you want to be part of all this, whether that’s six months from now or two months from now, we ask that you fill out a questionnaire so we can understand the needs of the fashion community and plan accordingly. The questionnaire in no way commits you to space, rather it lets us know who you are, what you are doing, and the amount of space, parking and any special requirements you may need.

We would like to have all questionnaires submitted by May 8, 2015 so we can stay on track, find the location in Detroit that best suits the garment district and make a deal on the real estate, so we can start developing the space.

If you have any questions, do not hesitate to reach out to me. I’m always happy to talk about the district, along with any other programming we provide.

Keep Michigan Talent in Michigan!