Local Designer Series: Knitwear and Jewelry Designer Lets Her Hands Do the Walking

Two Stix 5 Stones is a local knitwear and jewelry line with an bohemian chic style -- I mean, she knits free form, meaning she doesn't have a plan and she just lets her hands do the walking. If that's not bohemian, I don't know what is! Read about this local designer, and see what else she has to offer on her website.

DGG: Tell us about yourself, Beth.

Beth H: I graduated with a Bachelor’s Degree in Architecture several years ago. When I have time, I love to shoot photography and paint abstractly.

DGG: Tell us about Two Stix 5 Stones.

BH: I specialize in knits and accessories (shawls, halter tops, hats, jewelry, etc.) with an artistic flair. The knits are made with high quality exotic yarns including cotton, rayon, silk, linen, wool and other fine yarns. Each knit piece is hand-blend with as many as 16 yarns. I also make jewelry out of fiber, wire, beads & stones (hence the name of my business).

DGG: Why knit? What do you like about knitting versus sewing?

BH: Knitting is more versatile for me. I knit free-form and let the garment evolve. Often times, I do not know what I am making until I finish the piece. I believe “planning” on what I am going to make hampers the design process. I also like that knitting is “travel friendly” and I can take my office to the coffee shop.

DGG: What kinds of products do you sell, and where can people buy them?

BH: I sell shawls, scarves, halter tops, hats, fingerless gloves, fiber accessories and jewelry. I do a few fine art fairs, farmer’s markets and special events throughout the year. My next scheduled art fairs will be the Palmer Park Art Fair ( May 14 and 15) and The Grand Haven Art Festival (June 25 and 26).

DGG: What inspires you to create your products?

BH: I am inspired by nature, painting, weather, etc.

DGG: What does your workspace look like?

BH: My “workspace” is an absolute mess with knitting needles, yarn, beads and stones everywhere!

DGG: If you could dress anyone in your products, who would it be and why?

BH: I would love to dress the Olsen twins because their look is classy and sophisticated with an edge.

DGG: What has been your biggest learning experience throughout the process of starting and growing your business?

BH: Producing items with a modest price point.

DGG: Describe your style.

BH: My style is fashionable but timeless.

DGG: How do you take your coffee?

BH: Cream Only...

DGG: Knit scarves or knit hats?

BH: Both.

DHH: Laren Manoogian or Gudrun & Gudrun (both knitwear designers)?

BH: Both.

Local Designer Series: Local Designer Wears Many Different Hats on Path to Success

Local designer, Deanna Zapico of Designs by Deanna Zapico has done it all. From styling, to on-set costume design and custom gowns, she's used her creativity and sewing skills to her advantage to make a professionally fulfilling life for herself. If you are a local designer or fashion industry professional feeling down, this inspiring interview will should give you the motivation to keep on keeping' on! 

DGG: Tell us about yourself, Deanna.
Deanna Zapico: I've had a very unconventional and creative childhood with my mother as a commercial artist and my father, a classical musician. This couldn't help but influence me. I graduated from the College for Creative Studies majoring in Advertising Design in Detroit. I've been sewing since age 5 learning from both of my grandmothers and my mother, and I created my first wedding gown for my cousin at the age 20! I am engaged to be married this June to a wonderful man, Frank Arvan. Of course, I’m making my own gown. I also sing in my Father’s Chorale that he’s directed for close to 40 years. (He’s 84)

I was an advertising art director for about 12 years, working an average of 55 hours a week, then left the agency life to spend more time with my 2 sons, Ian and Andre. I have been designing custom gowns since my first gown at age 20, so it was natural for me to continue designing and sewing gowns from my home studio. I divorced in 2008, (a financially difficult year for most) I created a website for my business, www.customweddinggown.com and continued creating custom gowns and sewing and styling for television commercials from contacts I had made in advertising. Fortunately for me, 2008 the film industry came to MI due to Governor Granholm's tax incentives, and I was picked up almost immediately to sew and creative costumes with some huge talents.

DGG: Tell us about Designs by Deanna Zapico.
DZ: Along with designing and creating custom gowns, sewing and styling for TV commercials, and repairing gowns for a dry cleaner, I’ve also worked on over two-dozen films. I had the pleasure of working with academy award winning costume designers and sewn for many famous actors, from George Clooney, Ben Affleck and Henry Cavil to Rosie O’Donnell, Whitney Houston and Amy Adams, the list goes on. My latest big film was "Batman V Superman: Dawn of Justice," which comes out this March. Other bigger movies include "Up In the Air," "Sparkle," "Real Steel" and "Scream 4."
 

If all this wasn't enough to keep me busy, in 2014, I was chosen to compete in a Detroit Garment Group/ Detroit Institute of Arts fashion design contest, Beyond the Armor, which was special exhibit at the DIA featuring the lifestyle of the ancient Samurai as inspiration. For this I created an evening gown with a leather armor bustier and a long red silk dupioni skirt on which I designed and hand painted a Japanese dragon that completely wrapped around the flared bottom. I loved creating this one!!

DGG: How do you want to be remembered?
DZ: I would love to be remembered first as a wonderful mom and partner, and then an extremely versatile and talented designer who has been able to persevere through difficult times.

DGG: What was the toughest hurdle you overcame in your career?
DZ: My toughest hurdle so far, and I emphasize so far, had to be making enough money to live on after my divorce and literally continuously balancing 4 part time jobs. Creating custom gowns for private clients, sewing and styling for TV commercials, repairing gowns for Janet Davis Drycleaners and creating and sewing costumes for Hollywood. I don’t regret how hard I’ve worked; only not spending enough time with my younger son, Andre. I’ve learned how to wear many hats and juggle many skills over the last 8 years. I’m sure I will face more tough hurdles as the film industry winds down and I continue to grow and balance my other skills.

DGG: If you could give budding fashion designers three pieces of advice, what would it be?
DZ:
1) Be persistent!! Don’t give up on an idea if life throws you some difficulties.
2) If things don’t turn out the way you’ve planned, ask yourself what can I learn from this diversion? (And that’s all it is, a diversion) Who can I meet that may open new doors to help further my goals?
3) Be prepared to have many different jobs until you can support yourself on designing alone!!

DGG: Where do you see your company in 5 years?
DZ: I would like to expand by designing and manufacturing a vintage inspired collection of simpler wedding gowns that I would make available for purchase on my website.

DGG: If you could dress anyone in the world in your designs, who would it by and why?
DZ: Amal Clooney, both gorgeous and smart. And because the fashion publications can’t wait to see what she has on next. And Sophia Loren or Princess Diana. While they’re no longer with us, I choose Sophia for her gorgeous, sexy full figure and Diana for all of all the attention her wardrobe has received and is still receiving.

DGG: Describe your style. 
DZ: Sensual and refined.

DGG: How do you take your coffee?
DZ: I usually order a skinny, sugar free caramel latte at Starbucks.

DGG: Custom design or stock design 
DZ: I love creating custom gowns! (Realizing, of course, that I have yet to create a line.)

DGG: Gucci or Versace?
DZ: Alexander McQueen - Sensual and refined - but Versace for its flamboyant colors and sexiness, and also because the Versace family is from Calabria, Italy where my mother’s family comes from. Gucci for its classic designs.

Local Designer Series: Local Designer Turned a Setback into an Opportunity

DGG: Tell us about yourself, Kim.

Kim Collins: I am a Royal Oak native. My grandmother taught me how to sew by repurposing men’s shirts into bed jackets and capes with snaps for patients in the nursing home, where my great grandmother spent the last days of her life. Theater has also been a life long hobby. Performing as well as working behind the scenes with costumes and costume design.

My career and day job during my single years was sales; architectural signage, commercial printing and direct mail. I also bought and sold antiques as a sideline business. That business allowed me to fund many trips to Europe.

My husband and I married in 2003, and we had our son in 2004. I continued to work as an independent broker during the first two years after David was born, but left the industry after he was diagnosed with Atypical Autism. After spending eight years in the trenches with my son and getting him on track, I had to do something for myself. I had no desire to return to sales, and needed to be available for our son. I’ve always had ideas for an apparel line, but never took the plunge - this was the time.  

DGG: Tell us about Ann Normandy Design.

KC: Ann Normandy is studied design and painstaking execution that honors craft, quality, versatility and above all clothing that’s flattering to every shape and size. For my first two garments, I used antique mid 19^th and early 20^th century hand and machine woven French linen I had collected during my antique dealer years. The garments turned out so well, and had the most amazing fit that I decided to use the textiles. I created a collection of hand cut, handmade garments that not only are great design and fit, but easy care. All garments are machine washable.

My plan was to first establish myself with the handmade collection, then transition that collection with additional pieces into a commercial line, using commercial linens and finally produce a digital sewing pattern line for the home sewer.

Earlier last year, just as I was launching the collection, my son had a major set back. I had to drop everything for well over a month, and quickly realized that I would not be able to travel to sell my garments. I also didn’t have the funding to hire a rep. I needed to quickly rethink my business model. After research, talking to my mentor, as well as other industry professionals, I reversed my model and now sell a digital pattern line as I continue to sell the handmade collection privately, as well as wholesale online. I had already digitized and graded the patterns not only for the commercial sewer, but the home sewer. Most of the work was done. This was the perfect time to make this change. I just launched my first three garments during the past two months and already have sold patterns in three countries.

DGG: Who is the Ann Normandy girl?

KC: The collection was inspired by women of a certain age, with discerning taste in well made, timeless garments. Great care and research went into sizing for a woman and her ever changing body.

DGG: What was the best and worst advice you have received during your time starting and running Ann Normandy?

KC: Two successful people with two different perspectives. The best, you can’t rush design. Taking your time and setting the foundation for a lasting brand is critical. The worst, stick to your timeline while designing. I found that rushing through the process created garments that were good, but were missing fine details that make these garments stand out from others. As I took my time and let the collection evolve, I also found that my brand evolved as I was creating.

DGG: If you could give budding fashion designers three pieces of advice about starting a company, what would it be?

KC: Make a plan, business and creative and have the expectation that things may change. You must be flexible. Your idea may take a different direction, just as mine. Don’t fight it. Never underestimate your abilities outside of your own comfort zone.  I second-guessed my abilities on building my own website, hired an agency to do it, was put off and then completely ripped off. I ended up building my own within 4 days after losing nearly $3000. And everyone has advice, an opinion or suggestion. It’s good to know what people want, but use them wisely while keeping true to yourself.

DGG: How do you want to be remembered?

KC: I want to be remembered as the designer of garments that are still being worn and loved 10+ years after being purchased.  

DGG: Describe your style.

KC: Minimalist. I steer clear of prints. Our own features are our best asset and busy, fussy clothes shouldn’t compete with us.

DGG: Michael Kors or Donna Karan?

KC: Both! Michael Kors is the epitome of modern American design. Right up there with Bill Blass and Geoffrey Bean. Donna Karan, really knows how to design to accentuate a woman’s body. Her ability to drape knits is extraordinary.

DGG: Wide-leg pants or cigarette-leg pants?

KC: Again, love them both!

Local Designer Series: Accounting and Finance Major Takes a Risk into the World of Design

Local designer started school looking to pursue a career in the world of finance, but working in retail ignited her love of clothing and her desire to create. Once she started her family, she decided that she needed to work at her dream job to take it to the next level. And, she is doing just that.

DGG: Tell us about yourself, Jesse.

Jesse Harrell: Born and raised in Detroit, I am a self taught designer and mother of a 4-year-old son. I first fell in love with fashion while attending Oakland University where I was pursuing a degree in Accounting and Finance. After obtaining a seasonal employee position at a popular retail store in the area, it was there where I discovered my true love for fashion. After changing schools and changing majors I received some classical training at Wayne State University, however, I became a mom early in my studies, propelling me to continue to build my skills and techniques on my own while raising my son full time.

DGG: Tell us about the Jesse Jane, LLC.

JH: Styles by Jesse Jane LLC, was created based off the demand for women who wanted to look edgy, yet sophisticated. For women who love fashion and adore the clothing that comes the runways each season, but lives a real life and needs a wardrobe that can fit her lifestyle. For the woman who wants clothing designed specifically for her. This is why a big part of this business is Styling Services for our JANES.

Some of the services that Jesse Jane provides are:

-“JANE on the Go” Pieces 

These are the One of a Kind Ready to Wear Pieces that are always available to sell. These “Jane on the Go” pieces range from XS-XXL for women. These pieces are one-of-a kind pieces, meaning no two garments are ever the same. We believe in standing out and being unique, so having two “JANE’s” in the same outfit could be never logical in our world. These pieces are constructed by hand from pattern drafting to the actual construction and even fabric manipulation by Jesse Jane herself. Couture Edgy Ready to Wear Clothing.

-Styling Services

Custom Orders: These are garments that are specific for a certain occasion.

Personal Styling for JANES: This is when a client decides she wants to become a “JANE”. When speaking on “JANE “Status, she receives the following accommodations.

~ Email updates of upcoming events, new arrivals, and special offers.

~A mini collection for both Fall/Winter and Spring/Summer of 5-7 pieces will be constructed and designed around the lifestyle of the JANE and mixed with the aesthetic of Jesse Jane. The collections will be specifically and exclusively designed for the Jane in question.  The Jane will be allowed to select 5 out of the 7 pieces per collection and allowed to purchase other garments if desired.

DGG: What is the Jesse Jane, LLC design aesthetic?

JH: The aesthetic behind Jesse Jane is edgy yet sophisticated, very graphic in color and technique yet very classic in silhouette. So, yes you may see a hand painted graffiti inspired shirt but the shape is very classic and able to wear with a pair of jeans or with a nice blazer and to the office. Here at Styles by Jesse Jane we are more concerned with building you a wardrobe instead of just one custom pieces; the quality of our JANES and not necessarily the quantity of JANES is our biggest concern.

DGG: What are your goals for Jesse Jane, LLC over the next year working at DGG's Fashion Incubator?

JH: While working at the Incubator I plan to continue to learn and grow my business, continue to build my clientele, and with the help of the DGG it will have me ready for the next level, which will be opening up my own showroom in the heart of the city.

DGG: What has been the best and worst advice you have received since starting your company?

JH: The best advice I have ever received when it comes to not only being a designer but by being an entrepreneurs is to always stay true to your designs and vision, and nothing great happens overnight. Worst Advice that I have received was that it would be easy.

DGG: What has been one hardship you have overcome since starting your line?

JH: A hardship that I had to overcome was finding out exactly how I wanted present myself and the present my brand.

DGG: If you could dress anyone in your collection, who would it be and why? 

JH: I can not wait for the day where I can dress Kelly Osbourne in some of my clothes. I love her style, and I truly believe that she embodies everything that a JANE.

DGG: Describe your style.

JH: My style is very edgy yet classy. On any given day you can catch me wearing my black leather riding boots, my Jesse Jane slim fit pants, and black and white studded Jesse Jane top, paired with jewelry, a pop of color on the lip and my leather and denim jacket, and some sort of caffeine in my hand. Black is my happy color, and I wear it very often

DGG: How do you take your coffee?

JH: I start every day with a freshly brewed cup of Starbucks Veranda mixed with caramel cream, sugar, and if it’s a special day a dollop of whip cream.

DGG: Altuzarra or 3.1 Phillip Lim?

JH: Altuzarra hands down, I love the edgy yet classy side to the pieces. From the color pallets to the way the clothes sit on the models I am such a huge fan.

DGG: Simple or statement necklaces?

JH: Every woman should have a combination of both in their collection. I have pieces as simple as a necklace with just a chain and the evil eye on it, to pieces that I get custom made from a local jewelry designer, Bonnie's Boutiques, for my runway pieces.

Oh, Shop It: Bedrock Beauty to Sell Its Last Remaining Accessories During the Holiday Season

Photo Credit: Reel Clever Films

Bespoke leather luxury handbag company Bedrock Beauty is preparing to sell completely out of its current stock to make way for its rebranded merchandise. The brand has revamped its style of one-of-a-kind, unique leather goods to reinforce its positioning and identity as a luxury brand.

We are excited for our rebranding an re-launch, and are so grateful for all of the support we’ve had from those our supporters, coaches, mentors and fans who have been so instrumental in helping us reach this stage in our business," said T. Michael, designer and artisan of Bedrock Beauty.

Being that the relaunch will be in 2016, this holiday season will be the last opportunity to purchase some of the items in Bedrock Beauty’s existing collection, including the BB Signatures Series II. What better way to show someone you love him or her than with a hand-stitched leather luxury that won't be seen anywhere else. Visit www.bedrockbeauty.com to see the wide range in beautiful products and learn more about this local company.

Photo Credit: Reel Clever Films

Photo Credit: Reel Clever Films

Photo Credit: Reel Clever Films

Photo Credit: Reel Clever Films

Photo Credit: Reel Clever Films

On The Town: Shop Tracy Reese Locally

Tracy Reese's fall collections have found a new home, right here in the city. Tracy Reese, Tracy Reese Black Label, Plenty by Tracy Reese and Plenty Dresses by Tracy Reese collections can be found at Détroit Is The New Black in Midtown.

"I couldn't be more excited to have a retail presence in Detroit!" said Reese. "This is my hometown and it's extremely close to my heart. It truly feels like a bit of a homecoming and I'm thrilled to partner with Roslyn Karamoko at Détroit Is The New Black for this event."

Shop the store, and make sure to stop by Détroit Is The New Black from 3 to 4 p.m. on Saturday, October 10 for the Tracy Reese Meet & Greet. Détroit Is The New Black is located at 52 E Forest Ave., in Detroit.

Industry Spotlight: Local Sewing Expert Talks About the Art of Pattern Making

Rebecca Moore, instructor at International Academy of Design and Technology (IADT) Detroit and current pattern maker and production manager at Detroit Sewn™, started sewing at a very early age. In high school, she was introduced to pattern making by a tailor, and loved how math and a ruler could be the tools used to create a fairly simple garment. To some, pattern making can be an incredibly daunting task, but we had the chance to talk with Moore and delve into the art of pattern making. 

DGG: Tell us about pattern making. Why is it so important, and what are the three key things designers need to know when it comes to creating a pattern and working with a pattern maker?

Rebecca Moore: A pattern is the blueprint for your design. Pattern makers, or designers who are making patterns, need to know the measurements of the person for whom they are making the pattern, and the design elements needed for the design. Communication is key when working with a pattern maker. Designers need to have a sketch, or a clear idea of what the pattern needs to look like, including fabrics and notions, so the pattern maker knows how to draft the pattern to work with the fabric trims needed for the design.

DGG: What are the responsibilities of a pattern maker?

RM: The pattern maker will draft or drape the design, and he or she will also sew a sample with pattern to make sure all pieces fit together properly and lay correctly on the body. I think of pattern making as the engineering part of design; pattern makers need to have good mathematical skills, and a good eye to be able to project how the style, pattern and fabric will hang on the body before the garment is even sewn together.

DGG: Describe pattern making in 10 words or less. 

RM: Pattern making is the blueprint for your design.

DGG: What's the most rewarding thing about when creating a pattern for a client?

RM: Watching their face light up and say it is exactly what they envisioned.  

DGG: What three things do designers need to keep in mind when looking to hire a pattern maker?

RM: Have a clear idea of what you want in your pattern, have a sketch or a picture and be prepared for the expense. This is going to be a one-time expense, and it will be expensive. Pattern making is not just a paper pattern, it is a sample and a techpack. This includes a list of pattern pieces, instructions to sew the garment and a spec sheet (points of measure of your garment). If you plan on having it manufactured, you are required to have a tech pack to have it produced.

DGG: What advice do you have for industrial sewers who are looking to get into pattern making? RM: You need to know the body, math and textiles in order to be a good pattern maker.  

DGG: If you could work for any fashion house in the world as a designer or pattern maker, who would it be and why? 

RM: I would love to have my own fashion house someday, but in the mean time Balenciaga would be my second choice.

DGG: Describe your style.  

RM: Clean lines, comfortable and great fabric

DGG: How do you take your coffee? 

RM: Cream and sugar.

DGG: Do you prefer handmade patterns or digitized patterns? 

RM: Either.  I use all methods of pattern making, draping, digitized and drafting. It depends on the design of the garment for which method I prefer.

DGG: Do you prefer Dior or Chanel? 

RM: Dior is awesome, but my all time favorite is Madeline Vionnet.