Industry Spotlight: Local Sewing Expert Talks About the Art of Pattern Making

Rebecca Moore, instructor at International Academy of Design and Technology (IADT) Detroit and current pattern maker and production manager at Detroit Sewn™, started sewing at a very early age. In high school, she was introduced to pattern making by a tailor, and loved how math and a ruler could be the tools used to create a fairly simple garment. To some, pattern making can be an incredibly daunting task, but we had the chance to talk with Moore and delve into the art of pattern making. 

DGG: Tell us about pattern making. Why is it so important, and what are the three key things designers need to know when it comes to creating a pattern and working with a pattern maker?

Rebecca Moore: A pattern is the blueprint for your design. Pattern makers, or designers who are making patterns, need to know the measurements of the person for whom they are making the pattern, and the design elements needed for the design. Communication is key when working with a pattern maker. Designers need to have a sketch, or a clear idea of what the pattern needs to look like, including fabrics and notions, so the pattern maker knows how to draft the pattern to work with the fabric trims needed for the design.

DGG: What are the responsibilities of a pattern maker?

RM: The pattern maker will draft or drape the design, and he or she will also sew a sample with pattern to make sure all pieces fit together properly and lay correctly on the body. I think of pattern making as the engineering part of design; pattern makers need to have good mathematical skills, and a good eye to be able to project how the style, pattern and fabric will hang on the body before the garment is even sewn together.

DGG: Describe pattern making in 10 words or less. 

RM: Pattern making is the blueprint for your design.

DGG: What's the most rewarding thing about when creating a pattern for a client?

RM: Watching their face light up and say it is exactly what they envisioned.  

DGG: What three things do designers need to keep in mind when looking to hire a pattern maker?

RM: Have a clear idea of what you want in your pattern, have a sketch or a picture and be prepared for the expense. This is going to be a one-time expense, and it will be expensive. Pattern making is not just a paper pattern, it is a sample and a techpack. This includes a list of pattern pieces, instructions to sew the garment and a spec sheet (points of measure of your garment). If you plan on having it manufactured, you are required to have a tech pack to have it produced.

DGG: What advice do you have for industrial sewers who are looking to get into pattern making? RM: You need to know the body, math and textiles in order to be a good pattern maker.  

DGG: If you could work for any fashion house in the world as a designer or pattern maker, who would it be and why? 

RM: I would love to have my own fashion house someday, but in the mean time Balenciaga would be my second choice.

DGG: Describe your style.  

RM: Clean lines, comfortable and great fabric

DGG: How do you take your coffee? 

RM: Cream and sugar.

DGG: Do you prefer handmade patterns or digitized patterns? 

RM: Either.  I use all methods of pattern making, draping, digitized and drafting. It depends on the design of the garment for which method I prefer.

DGG: Do you prefer Dior or Chanel? 

RM: Dior is awesome, but my all time favorite is Madeline Vionnet.