Local Designer Series: Jewelry Designer Helps and Empowers Abused Women With Her Nonprofit

Joanne Ewald created Mend on the Move to help women who have been abused by employing them and giving them more opportunities. She's been making jewelry for 10 years but decided to combine that with her love of helping out to launch this nonprofit. Find out more about the company and Joanne in our interview!

Photo c/o Mend on the Move Facebook

DGG: Tell us about yourself, Joanne.

Joanne: I have been making jewelry for 10 years, always with a mindset to combine my two passions of creating for a cause.  I’ve always donated a portion of my proceeds to nonprofits, but it became clear that it was the social enterprise aspect that really appealed to me and that a nonprofit was the route to take.   Its more than just jewelry making it’s helping transform lives through the creative process.

DGG: Tell us about Mend on the Move.

J: We employ women who are survivors of abuse to create jewelry to provide them with an income while they are in recovery programs.  Many of our Makers are also recovering addicts and on probation from jail or prison as a result of their abusive pasts. We are not social workers, but are one component in the recovery process.  Our hope is to help our Makers become self-confident, learn accountability, become comfortable working in a group setting and earn a fair income (our Makers start at $9 hr.)  We are passionate about nurturing their individual skills and treating them with the respect and kindness they deserve.

DGG: What inspired you to create Mend on the Move?

J: I was sexually abused as a child and it has taken most of my adult life to heal from this. I have learned that most women who are abused through sex trafficking, domestic violence or other forms of abuse were first abused as children.  The trauma of untreated child abuse leaves victims vulnerable to further abuse later in life.  Fortunately that was not my story, which is rare.  At the age of 40 I embarked on a journey of faith and healing  that finally enabled me to forgive and move forward with my life.  Mend on the Move is where this journey led me so  that I can share my story and find a way to help others heal and find their voice too. 

DGG: What brought you into making jewelry?

J: This is going to sound a bit hokey, but I literally had a dream of breaking open a watch face with a hammer and in the dream I thought “wow, I could put something inside here.”  The dream stayed with me and the next day I started tinkering around with old watches.  Before long, I was filling the inside of watch faces with original collages and found objects and sealing them with resin.  I experimented with an art show and it amazed me when people actually started buying my creations!  My business was born.  

Photo c/o Mend on the Move Facebook

DGG: What do you hope to achieve with the company?

J:  The most immediate goal is to find sponsors for the 30 foot RV that was donated to us recently.  From the start, I envisioned Mend to be on the move with our makers creating from a mobile studio.  It is more efficient then packing and unpacking supplies and tools each time we go to our locations.  We want to also sell from the vehicle at shows and markets.   Long term, I want to just continue to listen to the women I employ and let them direct  me in how I can best serve them as we evolve.

DGG: Where do you see the company in the next 5 years?

J:  I honestly don’t have a 5 year business plan.   I let God take care of that.   But I’m very interested in adding up cycled clothing and inspirational T’s to our product line that our women can create.  We’ll see!

DGG: If you could have anyone wear the jewelry and support the company, who it would be?

J: I hugely admire Becca Stevens, founder of Thistle Farms in Nashville, a recovery/social enterprise program  where survivors of abuse make bath and body care products.  Three years ago I attended a workshop there and became fully committed to starting my own social enterprise upon seeing first hand the success stories.  Becca is my hero!

DGG: What is your favorite piece in the collection?

J: I guess I would pick the Safe Place necklace because I grew up longing for just that … and I’m grateful today to be a part of a support system that can provide this for our Makers.  I’m also loving the Mending necklace right now.  It’s  just so simple and effortless and I keep it on most of the time because it seems to work with everything. 

DGG: What is the most meaningful piece of jewelry you own?

J: My silver wedding band.  It’s the only piece of jewelry I wear consistently because the terrific guy I married actually had it custom made for me after I lost my diamond.  And really diamonds are not my thing.   I’m an unconventional jewelry kind of gal. Just adorn me with car parts and I’m happy!

DGG: How do you take your coffee?

J: With cream for that perfect caramel coloring.  It’s just as important as the coffee :)

DGG: Describe your style.

J: Evolving.  My daughter has recently opened my eyes to the perils of fast fashion.  As a result, I’m trying to be a more conscious and smart buyer, choosing simple more timeless pieces.  But this is most definitely a process because the latest trends always catch my eye!

DGG: Independent jewelry makers or larger companies?

J: Independent of course!  I love jewelry with a story.

Photo c/o Mend on the Move Facebook

By Alex Donlin

Local Designer Series: Designer Merges Architecture and Accessories for a Cool Jewelry Line

Starting as a way to support herself during grad school, Beau Sinchai took her architecture background and created Koonyai Studio. Specializing in jewelry and sustainability, Beau is inspired by building materials including  metals and concrete. Her geometric, simplistic designs are the perfect addition to any outfit.

Photo Credit: Koonyai Studio

DGG: Tell me about yourself, Beau.

Beau: I was born in Thailand and grew up in Minneapolis, MN. I love food more than diamonds and I am super thankful for Detroit’s amazing food scene. 

DGG: Tell me about Koonyai Studio.

Beau: Koonyai means beloved grandmother in Thai. I grew up under the care of my grandmother and it is where I got my entrepreneurial spirit. Koonyai Studio started while I was studying at Cranbrook Academy of Art as a means for myself to turn my wild ideas into a career.

DGG: What lead you to beginning to work with jewelry?

Beau: It is actually accidental. During my years at Cranbrook, I had been exploring the idea of body architecture quite a bit. The topics of what it meant to be architectural, materials, and it’s social and cultural association came up a lot. Then, I started to merge architecture with body adornment and starting to make jewelry. 

Photo Credit: Koonyai Studio

DGG: What is your vision for the brand?

Beau: I hope that the brand will become a design house and do more design work under all the scopes from jewelry to buildings while making impact to the world, environmentally and socially. 

DGG: Where do you see your brand in 5 years?

Beau: This is what I have been super excited to talk about. I am working toward becoming a zero-waste business. Sustainability, social and environmental aspects have always been the top priority when I started Koonyai studio and I hope to be able to make positive impact to our community through design work and jewelry.

DGG: If you could have anyone in the world wear your jewelry, who would it be and why?

Beau: Michelle and Barack Obama. Michelle wearing my work would make me die happy. I would love to have POTUS wear my jewelry to shatter some stereotypes surrounding gender and jewelry.

DGG: Describe your style.

Beau: Minimalist and comfort, but my friends are calling it “art-mom” style.

Photo Credit: Koonyai Studio

DGG: What's the most meaningful piece of jewelry you own?

Beau: A battery-less watch that uses solar power. I purchased it with my first paycheck in high school. It was the first “big” purchase I ever made in life.

DGG: How do you take your coffee?

Beau: With a lot of sugar and cream. I mean I take a lot of sugar and cream with a drop of coffee. I love tea though!

DGG: Etsy or Bluefly?

Beau: Etsy

DGG: Cartier or Tiffany?

Beau: Neither. I love independent makers and imperfections from being handmade.

Photo Credit: Koonyai Studio

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Local Designer Series: A Versatile Designer Creates an Even More Versatile Product

Emma Dawda went from working in the automotive industry in Detroit to making her dream of designing into reality. Her brand, emma.do, creates versatile sweaters for any and every occasion. They're perfect for everything from chilly offices to spending the day at a Tigers game to brunching with your friends. Learn more about Emma and how she got her start.

DGG: Tell us about yourself, Emma.

Emma Dawda: I have been in a dedicated relationship with fashion and design since I was about three years old. My entire childhood was spent making outfits for my Barbies out of old scraps of fabric and setting new trends in the 2nd grade by wearing mismatched socks. I got a sewing machine for my 10th birthday and I never turned back. I am a true hands-on creative. The minute an idea pops in my head I have to rush and sketch it out and by then I'm already picking out fabrics and figuring out the process for sewing.  Starting my own creative business just felt natural to me. I love my home state of Michigan, and I feel so lucky that Detroit is finally getting the attention it deserves when it comes to the art and design scene here. I look forward to the days of people moving here for internships and careers in design!

DGG: Tell us about emma.do.

ED: emma.do is an effortless apparel brand offering cozy women's sweaters that can be easily layered and transformed.  With one quick twist you can turn a warm, oversized sweater into a chic and stylish scarf. Creating a versatile, yet fashionable piece was the main focus behind starting my own brand. I wanted something that was flattering, comfortable, and most of all, beautiful. emma.do has been around for less a year, but it has already grown from selling sweaters out of my trunk (yes, literally) to setting up shop in the beautiful Eastern Market on the weekends. I'm excited to see where it will be in another year.

DGG: What made you want to start this collection? Do you plan on expanding?

ED: emma.do was born out of pure frustration and the desire to have an outlet for creative expression. I was working in the automotive industry and feeling squashed of all of my creative abilities. I had always had an idea in the back of my mind for starting my own business, but it came to fruition one day when I was freezing at my desk under the A/C in the dead of summer. I was huddled under a gigantic blanket scarf trying to stay warm when I thought "Here's the problem that I need to solve!" I was fed up with keeping a ratty old cardigan at my desk to stay warm so when I got home that night I sewed my very first "emma.do". I wanted a simple design that could fit over any outfit without having to worry about how it would look. I mixed the look of a scarf with a shrug and came up with an oversized sweater that can be easily twisted into a scarf if you are throwing on a jacket or just want something cozy around your neck. This simple design can look professional and classic when worn at work, but can also look very laid-back and chic when layered with a white tee and distressed denim. One day I do hope to expand into more knitwear and apparel, but for now I'm happy focusing on growing my business as it is. Stay tuned though because you never know what I have up my sleeve!

DGG: What types of fabrics are emma.do's made out of? Can one purchase a few emma.do's for every season?

ED: The emma.do's are made out of multiple fabrics so that people can either choose one for every season, or pick a mid-weight knit to wear all year-round. I started with a lightweight cotton French terry and classic ponte knit and added boiled wool and fleece for the winter. I've tried to find fabrics that can be easily folded up so that you can keep one in your purse for times when the A/C kicks on unexpectedly. It's like a stylish safety blanket to keep with you at all times!

DGG: What's been the hardest part about starting a fashion business?

ED: The hardest part has definitely been finding good quality fabrics at a decent price. I am the type of shopper that always picks out the most expensive thing in the store, so I constantly have to reel myself in because I don't want to charge an absurd amount for one of my sweaters. Pricing items in the handmade industry is very tricky. You have to show your customers why it is worth spending a certain amount on your product when they might be able to go to Target and buy something similar for a quarter of the price. It takes a bit of handiwork and it's been a struggle, but I think there are more and more people out there who are excited to see what local crafters and artists are capable of doing and I think they are more willing to support them.

DGG: If some one came to you and told you they wanted to start their own fashion company, what advice (or warning) would you give to them?

ED: I would definitely tell someone who wanted to start their own fashion company to research everything as much as possible. Look into every resource you can find and read book after book on owning a business and being your own boss. I am still very new to all of this, and I'm learning new things everyday, but educating yourself on even the smallest things will help when issues arise. I would also tell them to get out there and talk with other small business owners. Visit Eastern Market on the weekends and find out what others have done to get to where they are. It's nice to see successful businesses doing what they love, but it is also important to notice the weak spots so you can make note of them when it's your turn to be in charge.

DGG: If you could dress anyone in your emma.do's, who would it be and why?

ED: The thing that I love about my emma.do's is that I would love to dress Meryl, Streep but also Gigi Hadid. I think Meryl would look gorgeous in a black boiled wool emma.do over a crisp white button down and tailored denim. With Gigi, she could throw on a casual grey knit emma.do over her Calvin Klein sports bra and high-waisted leggings for the gym and still look just as pulled together as Meryl. The design works for all ages, all styles, and all body types and that was exactly my goal when designing my emma.do's.

DGG: How do you keep your workspace?

ED: My workspace is partly clean and tidy and partly organized chaos. It is a little difficult to sew without ending up covered in bits of thread, but I try my best to keep my sewing space clean and pulled together because I work better when things are organized.  However, my fabric cutting space is definitely more chaotic but organized. Anyone who sews will agree with me when I say that sewing turns you into a fabric hoarder. There just isn't a way around it. I hate to throw out any leftover fabric even if it is just a little square of something because I might be able to do something with it! I try to keep all of that as organized as I can in boxes and clear bins, but after a while it just piles up and looks kind of messy.

DGG: How do you take your coffee?

ED: Just a bit of half and half preferably in hazelnut coffee, but if I'm treating myself at Starbucks or something, I get a skinny vanilla latte or a caramel macchiato.

DGG: Crew neck or V neck sweaters?

ED: Crewneck all day everyday. My go-to outfit has always been a crewneck sweater with a statement necklace, tailored ankle pants and a kitten-heel pump. Can't go wrong in my book!

DGG: Jenna Lyons or Sophia Amoruso?

ED: That's a tough one! I love them both so much. My two favorite #Girlbosses for sure. I'm going to cheat and say both because Sophia's drive and ambition cannot be ignored while Jenna's style and ability to revamp a brand entirely has made her a very inspirational corporate leader.

Local Designer Series: Local Designer Turned a Setback into an Opportunity

DGG: Tell us about yourself, Kim.

Kim Collins: I am a Royal Oak native. My grandmother taught me how to sew by repurposing men’s shirts into bed jackets and capes with snaps for patients in the nursing home, where my great grandmother spent the last days of her life. Theater has also been a life long hobby. Performing as well as working behind the scenes with costumes and costume design.

My career and day job during my single years was sales; architectural signage, commercial printing and direct mail. I also bought and sold antiques as a sideline business. That business allowed me to fund many trips to Europe.

My husband and I married in 2003, and we had our son in 2004. I continued to work as an independent broker during the first two years after David was born, but left the industry after he was diagnosed with Atypical Autism. After spending eight years in the trenches with my son and getting him on track, I had to do something for myself. I had no desire to return to sales, and needed to be available for our son. I’ve always had ideas for an apparel line, but never took the plunge - this was the time.  

DGG: Tell us about Ann Normandy Design.

KC: Ann Normandy is studied design and painstaking execution that honors craft, quality, versatility and above all clothing that’s flattering to every shape and size. For my first two garments, I used antique mid 19^th and early 20^th century hand and machine woven French linen I had collected during my antique dealer years. The garments turned out so well, and had the most amazing fit that I decided to use the textiles. I created a collection of hand cut, handmade garments that not only are great design and fit, but easy care. All garments are machine washable.

My plan was to first establish myself with the handmade collection, then transition that collection with additional pieces into a commercial line, using commercial linens and finally produce a digital sewing pattern line for the home sewer.

Earlier last year, just as I was launching the collection, my son had a major set back. I had to drop everything for well over a month, and quickly realized that I would not be able to travel to sell my garments. I also didn’t have the funding to hire a rep. I needed to quickly rethink my business model. After research, talking to my mentor, as well as other industry professionals, I reversed my model and now sell a digital pattern line as I continue to sell the handmade collection privately, as well as wholesale online. I had already digitized and graded the patterns not only for the commercial sewer, but the home sewer. Most of the work was done. This was the perfect time to make this change. I just launched my first three garments during the past two months and already have sold patterns in three countries.

DGG: Who is the Ann Normandy girl?

KC: The collection was inspired by women of a certain age, with discerning taste in well made, timeless garments. Great care and research went into sizing for a woman and her ever changing body.

DGG: What was the best and worst advice you have received during your time starting and running Ann Normandy?

KC: Two successful people with two different perspectives. The best, you can’t rush design. Taking your time and setting the foundation for a lasting brand is critical. The worst, stick to your timeline while designing. I found that rushing through the process created garments that were good, but were missing fine details that make these garments stand out from others. As I took my time and let the collection evolve, I also found that my brand evolved as I was creating.

DGG: If you could give budding fashion designers three pieces of advice about starting a company, what would it be?

KC: Make a plan, business and creative and have the expectation that things may change. You must be flexible. Your idea may take a different direction, just as mine. Don’t fight it. Never underestimate your abilities outside of your own comfort zone.  I second-guessed my abilities on building my own website, hired an agency to do it, was put off and then completely ripped off. I ended up building my own within 4 days after losing nearly $3000. And everyone has advice, an opinion or suggestion. It’s good to know what people want, but use them wisely while keeping true to yourself.

DGG: How do you want to be remembered?

KC: I want to be remembered as the designer of garments that are still being worn and loved 10+ years after being purchased.  

DGG: Describe your style.

KC: Minimalist. I steer clear of prints. Our own features are our best asset and busy, fussy clothes shouldn’t compete with us.

DGG: Michael Kors or Donna Karan?

KC: Both! Michael Kors is the epitome of modern American design. Right up there with Bill Blass and Geoffrey Bean. Donna Karan, really knows how to design to accentuate a woman’s body. Her ability to drape knits is extraordinary.

DGG: Wide-leg pants or cigarette-leg pants?

KC: Again, love them both!

Local Designer Series: Local Designer Relocates to Detroit to Work on Sustainable Business Full Time

Meghan Navoy is a graduate from the Fashion Institute of Technology, and is very passionate about bringing the lack of environmental sustainability in fashion to light. After studying textile development, Meghan dove into the world of fashion and found inspiration in an unlikely form - used sweaters. This inspiration lead to her brand A Wool Story that prides itself on being environmentally friendly and having complete transparency. We were lucky enough to have a conversation with her about the process of creating A Wool Story, and why it’s so important to her.

Image from A Wool Story

DGG: Tell us about yourself, Meghan.

Meghan Navoy: I recently moved to Detroit from Brooklyn, NY where I lived for the last five years. In New York, I attended the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT) majoring in Textile Development. At FIT, I started a rooftop natural dye garden with two friends in order to bring attention to the issue of sustainability in the fashion industry. I spent the last year and a half working in children's wear doing textile development for denim and active wear. In July, I made the leap to quit my day job and start A Wool Story full time.

DGG: Tell us about A Wool Story.

MN: A Wool Story is a unisex, sustainable knitwear label that uses only recycled natural fibers. The yarn used is reclaimed from sweaters and re-knit into hats, mittens, and scarves. Environmental sustainability, ethical business practices, and transparency are essential to A Wool Story. Sustainability is considered in every aspect from the raw materials to the organic cotton sew in labels, the hand stamped recycled kraft paper hang tags, and the recycled paper mailing envelopes. The fashion industry is notorious for horrible violations of human rights and environmental pollution, and my goal with A Wool Story is to be an ethical and sustainable alternative.

Image from A Wool Story

DGG: You were living in Brooklyn, but moved to Detroit. What brought you to Michigan? 

MN: I am originally from Illinois and both of my parents are from Michigan. Much of my family still lives in Dearborn Heights and Grand Rapids, so it's nice to be close to them. I have been following the story of Detroit's changing atmosphere from New York and my boyfriend and I were really intrigued by the idea of being a part of the city's renewal. New York is becoming a place that is less and less attainable for artists, but Detroit is the perfect place to be able to have the space and resources to create.

DGG: Why is it important for you to use recycled wool, rather than using new wool?

MN: I use reclaimed sweaters because zero waste is an important design aspect to A Wool Story. By not consuming any new materials, I am able to create knitwear that is using what we already have. Wool is such an amazing fiber that not only provides warmth and is flame retardant, but it also lasts a long time. Synthetic fibers, such as acrylic, are petroleum based that are not as durable as wool and their production is bad for the environment. When a customer purchases an item from A Wool Story, they know exactly where it came from, how it was made, and that it will last a long time.

Image from A Wool Story

DGG: From where do you get the sweaters to unravel and use?

MN: I typically buy sweaters from thrift stores, but friends and family also donate unwanted wool sweaters to me as well.

DGG: Where do you sell your products?

AWS: I sell my products on my website at awoolstory.com and intend to wholesale locally in the future.

DGG: What's the best advice you have received since starting your company?

MN: The best advice I have received is to just start. It's so tempting to try to get everything perfect and planned out and spend a lot of time researching (all good things to do), but the best way to learn is by doing.

Image from A Wool Story

DGG: What's are your three most favorite things about Detroit since you have moved here? 

MN:

1. The Dequindre Cut - I am a bicyclist. I love riding down the river front and then down the Dequindre Cut. It is so beautiful and such a peaceful space.

2. Sister Pie - so delicious! I was riding around the city and admiring the West Village neighborhood when I stumbled upon Sister Pie. I had a chocolate coconut pie that was amazing. I can't wait to go back and try another kind of pie.

3. Lost and Found Vintage - technically in Royal Oak. I have been exploring local shops in Detroit and the surrounding area and am so glad I found Lost and Found. It's heaven!! It's beautifully curated with lots of amazing vintage finds.

DGG: If you could dress any celebrity in your products, who would it be and why?

MN: I would love it if Tavi Gevinson wore A Wool Story! She is really stylish and never cease’s to impress with her range of talents and accomplishments!! She's an amazing actor and writer with great taste.

DGG: Describe your style.

MN: I like to wear mostly vintage, for the sustainability aspect and because you can find so many interesting unique pieces. My style could be described as minimalist; I am inspired by Scandinavian and Japanese design.

DGG: How do you take your coffee?

MN: Black, with freshly ground beans in my French press.

DGG: Pendleton or London Fog?

MN: Definitely Pendleton.

DGG: A wool hat or wool scarf?

MN: Preferably both - but if I had to pick it would be a hat!